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9-16b and c). This knot is straightforward to untie after it's been loaded, making it a sensible choice for a top-roping tie-in. Fig. 9-16. unmarried bowline with a Yosemite end: a, tie a unmarried bowline, protecting the knot unfastened; b, convey the unfastened finish below and over the rope and below the full knot, then up during the bowline’s topmost loop; c, pull all 4 strands tight. Butterfly Knot The worthwhile attribute of the butterfly knot (fig. 9-17) is that it may possibly maintain a pull on both finish of the rope or the loop and never come undone. A connection to this knot is made with a locking carabiner throughout the loop. Fig. 9-17. Butterfly knot: a, shape a double loop; b, pull the decrease loop over after which again up via higher loop; c, pull loop and either strands tight. Clove Hitch The clove hitch (fig. 9-18a and b) is a brief knot for clipping in to a locking carabiner (fig. 9-18c) connected to an anchor (fig. 9-18d). the most benefit of the clove hitch is that the knot makes it effortless to regulate the size of the rope among the belayer and the anchor with out unclipping the rope from the carabiner. Fig. 9-18. Clove hitch: a, shape bights facet by way of part; b, deliver left-hand bight at the back of the opposite; c, clip a locking carabiner via either bights; d, pull either ends tight. Girth Hitch The girth hitch (fig. 9-19a) is an easy knot which could serve numerous reasons, corresponding to attaching webbing to a average anchor or to a pack’s haul loop (fig. 9-19b). it will possibly even be used to tie off a short-driven piton (see determine 13-9 in bankruptcy thirteen, Rock Protection). Fig. 9-19. Girth hitch: a, pull either ends via a bight; b, girth hitch tied round a pack’s haul loop. Overhand Slipknot The overhand slipknot (fig. 9-20a and b) is one other basic knot. it can be used to connect a tie-off loop (see “Runners,” under) or one finish of a private anchor (see “Personal Anchors,” less than) to a carabiner. The overhand slipknot has the additional advantage of immobilizing a runner’s knot or a sewn bar tack at the carabiner (fig. 9-20c). just like the girth hitch, it might even be used to cinch a runner to a rock function or to tie off a short-driven piton. Fig. 9-20. Overhand slipknot: a, make a loop, then carry a bight up throughout the loop; b, draw loop closed to tie off bight; c, clip bight right into a carabiner and pull either ends tight. Mule Knot The mule knot is used to briefly tie off a belay to a fallen climber so either arms will be thoroughly used to establish an anchor and loose oneself from the mountaineering rope (see “Escaping the Belay” in bankruptcy 10). whilst belaying with a tool, in which the braking hand is pulling again, pull a bight of rope throughout the locking carabiner in your harness (fig. 9-21a). Pull the bight at the back of the loaded strand of rope going to the fallen climber and twist to shape a loop. Then fold one other bight of rope over the loaded strand and push it in the course of the loop (fig. 9-21b). get rid of any slack and pull the knot tight by way of pulling at the top strand (fig. 9-21c); the result's known as a device-mule. again up the device-mule with an overhand knot (fig.

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